Fashion redefined: climate action and social justice in supply chains
Dr Hakan Karaosman’s research looks at reshaping the fashion industry for a more sustainable and equitable future.
Through exploring climate action and social justice in complex fashion supply chains, he aims to create inclusive social dialogues to inspire and catalyse radical systems change.
Meet Dr Hakan Karaosman
Watch this short video for an introduction to Dr Karosman’s research and to understand his motivations for studying this topic.
FReSCH (Fashion’s Responsible Supply Chain Hub)
Delving deeper into this research area, Dr Karaosman tells us about FReSCH (Fashion’s Responsible Supply Chain Hub)…
“Not only does the fashion industry harm the planet but it also creates dire social and psychological consequences for the workers across globally dispersed and fragmented supply chains. Despite some ongoing sustainability attempts, most practice and research focuses on incremental environmental actions with social issues largely ignored. It is important to acknowledge that there are trade-offs between operational goals and sustainability and between environmental and social sustainability.
FReSCH is an EU-awarded and UN-recognised action research project, set up in January 2020, that I conduct in partnership with Professor Donna Marshall from University College Dublin. We bring an integrated, interdisciplinary, multi-stakeholder, and original view of a just transition to supply chain management.
We create theoretical, practical, and policy implications on how to orchestrate inclusive, holistic, and equitable actions led by people and communities to disrupt and transform market-based, capitalist systems that perpetuate social and environmental problems.
Our research contributes to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. It also tackles the public value grand challenges such as decent working conditions, building a fair and social industry, and sustainable fashion chains. We research strategies for a just, fair, and inclusive transition to a low-carbon circular fashion industry.
Brand and supplier levels
FReSCH examines multiple supply chain levels. At the brand level, we understand the development of strategies and resources to cascade environmental and social sustainability practices throughout supply chains. At supplier and sub-supplier levels, we uncover the lived realities of small and medium-sized (SME) suppliers, and the outcomes of economic and environmental demands on working conditions across multiple tiers.
FReSCH stands for inclusion and representation
We ensure diversity and representation in terms of different stakeholders and academic disciplines. This helps us gain a more complete, realistic, and original perspective to create interventions, including technical and relational models, social and environmental practices, and awareness among multiple stakeholders to develop effective means for a just transition.
Reshaping the industry
Fashion has notoriously secretive and fragmented supply chains. But our research shows that there are straightforward solutions when fashion brands adopt the right approach whereby environmental justice, in terms of decarbonisation, and social justice, in terms of fair working conditions, happen in conjunction. FReSCH shows that inclusive social dialogues and honest brand-supplier interactions are imperative and that just transition can happen when representation and empathy are ensured in decision-making.”
Public value
Dr Hakan Karaosman on his public value research:
“Cardiff Business School has always inspired me, as it is the world’s first public value business school. I define public value as a holistic system where the act of empathy, kindness and respect are ingrained to create systems change with the people for the people. Being raised by a mother who was a homeworker making garments, Igrew up in a household that was part of a fashion supply chain. So, I try to build and deliver research with substance by putting people front and centre.
As a scientist, all I aspire to do is facilitate change, inspire people to build conversations, and bring light to injustice issues in any context. It is not easy to talk about imbalanced power relationships, corporate hypocrisy, and greed, but I have a responsibility to not be quiet.
My research is about fashion supply chains but today’s fashion setting does not reward the people working across complicated, multi-tiered, fragmented networks but these are the people making our garments; these are the people making fashion brands this profitable. My research is a statement, addressing the importance of empathy, kindness, inclusion and compassion within complex supply networks.”
Profile
Publications
- Karaosman, H. , Marshall, D. and Villena, V. H. 2023. Chrysalis of crisis: covid-19 as a catalyst for awakening power and justice in a luxury fashion supply chain. International Journal of Operations & Production Management 43 (10), pp.1634-1666. (10.1108/IJOPM-05-2022-0320)
- Karaosman, H. and Marshall, D. 2023. Impact pathways: Just transition in fashion operations and supply chain management. International Journal of Operations & Production Management 43 (13), pp.226-237. (10.1108/IJOPM-05-2022-0348)
- Karaosman, H. , Marshall, D. and Brun, A. 2020. Does the devil wear Prada? Lessons in supply chain sustainability from luxury fashion. European Business Review , pp.103-108.
Selected international media articles
- Time for a truly global sustainability summit?, Vogue Business, 5 July 2023
- Global fashion summit - focus needed, notable absentees, and the O-word, Forbes, 4 July 2023
- Fashion brands must stop moving suppliers to cut costs, Yahoo News, 27 June 2023
- "Supplier inclusion is key to climate action", Union of Concerned Researchers in Fashion, 11 April 2023
- "Fast fashion is out of fashion - is capitalism going to collapse?" Lampoon Magazine, 28 March 2023
- "What is just transition not? A response to the latest greenwashing fad in the fashion industry", Eco-Age, 22 February 2023
- "Shein’s EPR scheme is ‘Social Offsetting”, Apparel Insider, 30 June 2022
- “We need a people-centred transition to a just fashion system”, Ferragamo, September 2021
- “A cleaner and fairer supply chain: representation and inclusion are needed for the transition to a low-carbon circular economy”, Lampoon Magazine, The Transition Issue, 12 April 2021
- “Piano d'azione per un lusso responsabile” (Action plan for responsible luxury), Vogue Italia, 8 February 2019 (In Italian)
Selected international media contributions:
- In the aftermath of earthquakes, Türkiye's textile industry calls on brands for support, Vogue Business, 1 May 2023
- 10 years since Rana Plaza, not enough has changed, Vogue Business, 24 April 2023
- Project FReSCH: How can fashion supply chains cope with future crises and disruptions?, European Commission, March 2023
- Nobody left behind: Why fashion should strive for a 'just transitiion', Vogue Business, 6 February 2023
- Shein’s sudden rise: The human cost of fast fashion, Context (Powered by Thomson Reuters Foundation), 28 October 2022
- “Sustainable fashion aims to make green the new black”, European Commission Horizon, The EU Research & Innovation Magazine, 27 October 2021
- The great green washing machine part 1: Back to the roots of sustainability, Geneva Centre for Business & Human Rights & Eco-Age, 15 September 2021
- “What is the deal with synthetic fibres?”, Green News Ireland, 16 July 2021
- “Profits and pollution: The truth about fashion’s lockdown”, Flock Magazine, 27 January 2021
- “Closing the business circle worth upwards of €1.8tn”, The Irish Times, 4 December 2020
- “Company helps organisations measure and manage greenhouse gas emissions”, The Irish Times, 4 December 2020
- “Constructive activism for fashion justice”, Save Your Wardrobe, 4 December 2020
- "Social sustainability, overstock and 'greenwashing': How COVID-19 is changing the fashion industry", Forbes, 21 April 2020
- "Shall I compare thee to my old jumper? Stories of love for old clothes", The Guardian, 20 April 2020
- "Moda e coronavirus: perché si dovrebbe ripartire dalla sostenibilità, la Republica, 9 April 2020
- "Sustainability: A lever for post-coronavirus relaunch", WWD, 1 April 2020